Michelle, ma belle... tres bien ensemble
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Michelle ma belle, sont des mots qui vont très bien ensemble,

Tres bien ensemble

Bridesmaid.

7/14/2014

44 Comments

 
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The very first vintage patterns I added to my collection are all various party dresses from the 1950s and 1960s. Practical? Not for my life, unfortunately. Still, the gorgeous envelope art and the attention to detail incorporated into designs from these eras strongly attracts me. 
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Most of my vintage treasures have sat, under-loved, in my pattern cabinet since the time I bought them. I swear I want to make each and every one, but I never seem to have a reason. Then, my good friend Molly got engaged and invited me to be a member of the bridal party. 
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Unlike all of the weddings I'd been in previously, Molly challenged each of us to find a dress for ourselves. She chose the color, equipped us with swatches and set us free with the instructions that she wanted to incorporate pattern texture and varying shades into the line. 
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At first, I wasn't sure I wanted to make my dress. A friend's wedding is a pretty important occasion. I had serious fears about being immortalized in her wedding photos as a giant craft project- especially after the first pattern and muslin I made were a complete disaster. 
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Then, while I was folding fabric and organizing my stash, I found the perfect piece of fabric. Who am I to ignore fate? The fabric is a double layer- lace adhered to a more stable and opaque fabric. It's likely from the 80's, if I had to guess, and it was certainly intended for a yardage heavy formal garment(s), as I started with close to 7 yards of it. 
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I sat down and flipped through my pattern binders before landing on Butterick 9561. I chose view 1, and omitted the modesty panel, as I have limited risk of indecency with low cut tops.  I did make a fit muslin and made some adjustments prior to cutting into my fabric. 
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First, there are no bust darts in this design. All of the shaping through the bust is created by the pleating at the center of the bodice. I had more ease than I needed in my muslin bodice, so i removed width from the side seam and re-contoured the armscye. Next, I had no intentions of wearing any form of corset or girdle, so I straightened the angle of the midriff section to zero-ease for easy wearing. For my skirt, I used two panels instead of four panels and shortened the hem by nearly "18 in order to achieve an above the knee dress length. Also, I pleated my skirt instead of gathering it into the waistband.  Finally, I omitted the facings on the bodice. Instead, I self-faced it with a light Georgette. I attached the bodice and skirt seams with French seams. And, I replaced the lapped zipper with an invisible zip.  
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For as nervous as I was to sew this dress, I am really happy with the way it turned out!  
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I felt confident and comfortable throughout the entirety of the day. And, most importantly, I give it high marks in the swirl factor department.   Have you made your own formal attire? Share your experiences in the comments! 
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44 Comments
Ashley link
7/14/2014 03:20:47 am

GORGEOUS! This color is perfect on you, the fit is awesome, and the shoes match perfectly ;)

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Michelle link
7/15/2014 12:23:58 am

THANKS! It was really random running into you the other day! We should do it again, on purpose. The shoes worked brilliantly! I made it through the whole night in them! :-D

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Faye Lewis link
7/14/2014 03:35:39 am

Your dress is gorgeous!

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Michelle link
7/15/2014 12:24:34 am

Thanks, Faye!

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zilredloh link
7/14/2014 04:23:27 am

Oooh It's very pretty. I love your fancy hair/makeup too - very lovely Michelle. :D

I'd love to see all of the peach colored dresses everyone wore, too. I love seeing wedding photos & pretties.

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Michelle link
7/15/2014 12:29:11 am

I'm a totally different woman with hair and make-up done. :-D The variety of dresses was perfect and looked really fantastic. Here's a link to a pic on the photographer's facebook:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t31.0-8/10448605_10152104228196582_7990574257659041724_o.jpg

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Sally Anne
7/14/2014 06:06:25 am

Excellent job!

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Michelle link
7/15/2014 12:30:43 am

Thank you! :-D

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Nat @ Made in Home link
7/14/2014 06:24:45 am

You look stunning. Couldn't you wear the dress as a skirt with a fitted cardigan for everyday life? It really suits you. Your friend is not scared of letting you off finding your own dresses...

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Michelle link
7/15/2014 12:32:32 am

I think we were all more nervous to pick out our dresses than Molly. She is very trusting! I will definitely find a way to wear this again. I'm very happy with the whole thing. Maybe I'll just have to have Michael take me out for dinner and dancing more frequently!

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Meg The Grand
7/14/2014 06:44:20 am

I LOVE IT SO MUCH! It turned out perfectly. The shape of it is so flattering, and the color is marvelous. Well done on making such a beautiful dress - it looks like you had a wonderful time!!

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Michelle link
7/15/2014 12:35:12 am

Oh, it was fantastic. The next time I get nervous about a project to the point of procrastination, smack me upside the head. LOL. I was scared for no reason at all!

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LEAsHeartART link
7/14/2014 07:58:02 am

Wow :) what a wonderful bridesmaid! It fits perfectly :)

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Michelle link
7/15/2014 12:37:17 am

Thank you! I did try to tweak the fit and I am really pleased with the way it worked out. It was much easier to take fabric from the side seams without bust darts to work around. I've never used a pattern that didn't have them before this one.

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Andria link
7/14/2014 08:31:37 am

You are a rock star. Seriously lovely dress!

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Michelle link
7/15/2014 12:38:24 am

*plays air guitar* HAHA. Thank you!

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Marie link
7/14/2014 08:31:49 am

Wow! Truly breathtaking Michelle and thanks so much for taking part in #vintagepledge - I've added you to the Pinterest board http://www.pinterest.com/stitchodyssey/vintage-sewing-pattern-pledge/

Your choice of fabric/colour are so pretty and I just love the bodice/neckline detail!!!

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Michelle link
7/15/2014 12:39:50 am

Thank you, Marie! I do hope to contribute a few more projects to the vintage pledge before the end of the year! I have so many gorgeous patterns being neglected at the moment. They deserve to be sewn!

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crab&bee link
7/14/2014 08:53:42 am

Well done! This dress suits you perfectly. I like how the skirt pleats turned out and the shorter length as well.

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Michelle link
7/15/2014 12:47:27 am

Thank you! Making a muslin really helped me with the decision to pleat the skirt. I gathered it in my first go, and it was only, OK. As far as the length. I'm just short. LOL. Whenever I sew vintage, I always assume I need a yard less than the pattern suggests, because I take a minimum of 15inches from the hemline to keep them off the floor. :-D

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Charlotte link
7/14/2014 02:02:40 pm

That dress color with your skintone and pearls? Perfection. Which makes me sound oddly like Cruella DeVil, but all right.

18" off of the skirt and use of half of the panels, with full maintenance of the swirl factor? I wonder what the dress must have looked like when sewn as originally intended. Lovely, I'm sure, but I think your iteration tops it for ease and wearability.

I aspire to have the gumption to sew formalwear. I also aspire to wear formalwear without accidentally tucking it into my stockings, or falling backside over teakettle out of the car. Big dreams, over here.

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Michelle link
7/15/2014 01:02:46 am

Now the Cruella theme song is going to be in my head all morning! :-D

I think the quickest way to make a vintage pattern look more contemporary is to cut the skirt volume in half. I really do love a full swishy skirt, most of the time. I think the additional fabric makes a garment look more expensive than RTW and dresses made from modern dress patterns... as I mentioned in your post on industry costs. I could go on and on... And, at the very least, having an abundance of skirt gives me a 'Marie Moment' every time I put it on. And, I dance around singing "I feel pretty".

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docksjö link
7/14/2014 04:33:08 pm

It's gorgeous and the fabric it something special.

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Michelle link
7/15/2014 01:05:25 am

Thank you! The fabric and pattern were a great match for one another! I still have a bit of this fabric leftover. I'm eager to see how it works with different types of garments. Tap shorts, maybe?

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Gail link
7/14/2014 08:49:55 pm

What a beautiful dress! I'm so glad you found a pattern that worked for you in the end!

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Michelle link
7/15/2014 01:07:53 am

Thanks, Gail! There are many fish in the sea, right? This pattern is a keeper, for me, for sure.

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Bonnie link
7/15/2014 02:00:08 am

Very pretty!

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Michelle link
7/20/2014 11:07:48 am

Thank you, Bonnie! :-)

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steph link
7/15/2014 09:12:55 am

You look absolutely gorgeous in this dress!!!! What a seamstress! I couldn't imagine making anything so beautiful.

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Michelle link
7/20/2014 11:08:58 am

Steph, you knit things as and more beautiful than this all the time! I bet you could sew if you decided you want to. :-)

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katie metzroth link
7/16/2014 05:35:10 am

Sometimes I really wish we lived closer. I'd throw girly parties and teas just so you could wear vintage dresses. : )

If there are any Mad Men watching parties in your area, you could wear them there too.

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Michelle link
7/20/2014 11:32:12 am

Katie, I would LOVE if you lived closer! Mike travels to Houston quite often for work, one of these trips, I'm going to tag along with him so I can meet some TX bloggers! That said, do you live anywhere near Houston?

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Brooke link
7/17/2014 11:19:17 am

Such pretty lines! I love the style on you! You definitely do not look like a "craft" project in your dress. The best custom clothing is the kind you feel comfortable in and it shows in your photos. =)

I have a similar modern pattern that I bought a couple of years ago, and when I first saw your dress on IG, I thought you had used the pattern I have. It's a nice timeless look!

I made my wedding dress and 3 bridemaids dresses when I got married over 12 years ago. Then a couple years after my wedding, I built my sister's dress, 4 bridesmaids, and a flowergirl dress - all in 1930s art deco style. Hers was a ton of work in a very short period of time! I think formal dresses are my favorite projects.

You did a wonderful job on your dress! I hope you can find other occasions to wear it again!

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Michelle link
7/20/2014 11:34:53 am

WOW. Simply. WOW. I sweat the process of making this dress, so I can't imagine undertaking the task of making dresses for the entire wedding party at both your and your sister's weddings! I wish hat I had known how to sew when I got married. It would have been really cool to make a wedding dress!!!!

What is the modern pattern that you have similar to this? It'd be neat to see the differences in construction between the vintage and modern versions!

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Brooke link
7/21/2014 11:56:24 pm

I can't remember without going digging through my patterns what pattern I'm reminded of (maybe a Simplicity?). Remind me on Twitter Wednesday or Sunday afternoon and I'll go looking for it since I should have those days off work. =)

Brooke link
8/6/2014 06:09:04 am

I just went digging through my pattern drawers. Your dress made me think of New Look 6644 - same bodice style and they even made it in a similar color to your dress for the live model photo on the envelope!

Debbie link
7/17/2014 01:07:38 pm

You look absolutely amazing Michelle! I love this dress on you.

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Michelle link
7/20/2014 11:35:21 am

Thanks, Debbie!

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Kathryn link
7/17/2014 04:32:04 pm

This is a stunning dress Michelle & the fit looks perfect. I really like when bridesmaids aren't all dressed the same

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Michelle link
7/20/2014 11:36:22 am

Thanks, Kathryn. The bride really had a vision on this one! It looked gorgeous when it all came together.

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sezza link
7/17/2014 07:54:30 pm

I LOVE IT! I am so impressed with your skills. And I clicked the link you posted above and LOVE the array of dresses, what a great line up - such a great idea!

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Michelle link
7/20/2014 11:37:32 am

Thanks, Sarah! It was really cool that everyone got to bring a little bit of their own flavor to the wedding party! I really love the way it pulled together. I can't wait to see more pictures from the photographer.

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Sally link
7/19/2014 03:30:29 pm

this. is. beautiful. you look so lovely and radiant - the fabric, the pattern, everything is so elegant and perfect! brava! :)

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Michelle link
7/20/2014 11:39:04 am

Thank you, Sally. :-D It really was a situation of happenstance. I couldn't believe when I pulled this piece of fabric out of the box while I was unpacking. It was perfect for the occasion.

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