At long last, it's starting to feel like summer in the city. It's muggy and hot- exactly the way it should be. Nevermind that it's already the middle of July, and these temperatures should have arrived months ago. It worked out for me, because 'months ago' is when I should have started sewing summer staples. And, last weekend is when I finally got around to doing so.
What ultimately became a Datura Blouse started as a completely different project. It's a heartbreaking tragedy involving silk and snagging needles. I won't bore you with the details. There was yelling. There were tears. It was awful. But, as things tend to do, it worked out in the end. Following my debacle, I had EXACTLY enough untainted fabric to cut the bottom portion of this blouse. Happenstance.
After some hesitant test stitching on scrap fabric with a new needle, this top came together very easily. I paired the printed charmeuse with a black crepe for the yoke contrast. They're both silk and similar in weight, so they compliment each other well.
I'd read some reviews describing the pattern instructions as unclear and difficult to decipher, but I didn't run into any issues. I did, however, make a couple changes and sewed based primarily on intuition rather than a strict adherence to the directions. So, it's probably best not to use my experience as any indication as to their usability.
Most notably, I chose not to underline the yoke of my blouse. It didn't seem critical to the overall construction or fit of the garment. I also did not use any bias tape to finishes the edges. I replaced both these aspects with a rolled hem at the neckline, armscye, and hemline. Additionally, I used French seams throughout, so I can wear this top confidently without fear of fraying edges.
I already love it to pieces! I left the pattern out on my table so I can get to work making another ASAP. Really, I could use several of these in my closet. The positive ease and flattering curve over the hip makes this a really wearable blouse. In addition to the way I wore it here, I've already worn it tucked into a pencil skirt, and it looked great!
There are some pretty versatile options included with this pattern. I'm interested to see if I can tackle the cut-out neckline. And, I definitely want a PeterPan collared Datura. Ooo, and a lace one. And, I did buy some great silk prints while I was in New York last month that would be amazing tops as well...
I may be getting a little carried away. The gist is, I really love this pattern and the blouse it yielded.
Pattern: Datura Blouse by Deer and Doe
Fabric(s): Silk Charmeuse and Silk Crepe
7/10/2013 12:01:02 am
What a pretty blouse! And it looks perfect for the hot summer days ahead!
I have just started exploring the world of silk fabrics, so I don't know a lot; however, I know that it is very important to use a fine gauge needle (universal needle sz 10 or 11), Also, it is helpful to shorten your stitch length and to hold the fabric slightly taunt from the front and the back of the needle (this helps reduce puckers) when sewing on silk. And, of course, I recommend making a few rows of test stitching on scraps before you get started on your actual project. Silk can be a bit more slippery than other types of fabrics, so it's important to make sure your edges stay aligned when you're cutting and sewing.
7/10/2013 01:58:04 am
This may just be me...but is it black or blue? It doesn't necessarily matter but I was just wondering.
7/10/2013 06:16:58 am
That's a really cute top! I like that it could be worn to work or out for fun.
7/10/2013 06:48:31 am
I want pics of it with the pencil skirt! (and a goose that lays golden eggs!)......but seriously, it looks great! (glad to have you back. feels like you took a wee break from the blog? and now I sound needy.)
I oftentimes use a Universal size 9 needle for silks and if the thread feels like it's "punching holes" in the fabric try silk thread. The bonus of silk thread is that it lays flat when you iron. Beautiful blouse! And yes, make more and let's see pics with your pencil skirt : )
7/10/2013 09:28:42 am
Will have to make this! It is the second one I have seen in 20 minutes... And I love them! Such an easy top to have!
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