Michelle, ma belle... tres bien ensemble
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Michelle ma belle, sont des mots qui vont très bien ensemble,

Tres bien ensemble

TOVA

7/10/2014

12 Comments

 
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Have you ever had a pen pal? When I was small, I had several. We used to write and send letters between different states and continents. It definitely wasn't as easy to keep in contact then as it is now. All my correspondences transpired in the days before the internet, (that makes me feel ancient). And, unfortunately, I lost contact with all of my pen pals over time. Nowadays, its easier than ever to make friends and keep in touch with people in different parts of the world. One of the biggest benefits, for me, about blogging is the opportunity to discover people with common interests and hobbies. It's like having pen pals, but better and with instant contact! It's funny to refer to a person I've never met as a friend, yet that's exactly the way I feel about Nathalie. I met her through her blog a couple years ago and have had increasingly more contact with her as time goes on. Recently, we discovered that we have more in common than a shared interest in sewing and knitting. We learned that we have very similar body types and share many of the same complaints with fit and flattery in clothing.

When Nat contacted me to ask if I would be interested in sewing projects together virtually, I immediately accepted! There have been a few changes, well, one major change since that first conversation, but our plan remains.  
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Our first project is the Wiksten Tova top/dress. I'm embarrassed to admit, I was completely unfamiliar with this pattern at the time Nat suggested it. I'm so happy to know about it now, because I definitely see more of these in my future. Aside from grading between sizes, I didn't make any changes to the original pattern.

The sizing confused me considerably. Prior to cutting I had fears regarding the amount of ease built into the dress; it seemed like there would be A LOT.

Instead of following the recommendations, I measured the pattern pieces, subtracting seam allowance, and settled on the xs at the bust and the small through the hip. I never cut patterns in such small sizes, so I did a fair amount of second guessing. However, my measurements indicated that I would have four inches of ease through the hip using the size small, which is exactly what I wanted. As a person who is both short (5'2) and hippy, I was concerned that excess volume might make me look heavy and shapeless. 
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Im very pleased with the shape and fit through the hip area. The top of my Tova fits a bit snug through the chest and shoulders, so I will likely cut a straighy size small when I revisit the pattern. Based on my measurements of the flat pattern, I had expected a little more than an inch of positive ease through the chest, but I ended up with less.  I may also incorporate an underarm gusset, because I like to have good range of motion without feeling constricted.

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My dress fabric is a beautifully light chambray I pulled from the depths of the stash. It's crisp and drapes gorgeously. I rescued it from an estate sale a while back, and I'm certain I didn't pay more than $1 for the 5+ yards I brought home. (There's enough left to make an Archer!) For the placket, I knew I wanted to add a bit of 'pop'. I cut a small remnant piece of lace (also estate stash) to match the placket and sleeve cuff pieces. During making, I used both sets of placket and cuff pieces as if they were one piece of fabric and sewed per the instructions (It might be helpful to baste the lace to the dress fabric, if you're interested in trying this for the first time).

With regard to construction, I really appreciated the finishing techniques directed in the pattern. They make for tidy innards; however, I chose to use french seams in lieu of serging at the shoulder/side seam/armscye. I did stay within the 3/8 seam allowance, so I didn't have to make any adjustments. For the insert, I basted first, then sewed. I had a little difficulty getting the square neckline to be... square. But I managed in the end.When I basted, I did both sides before sewing the bottom, so I had two points to connect and less opportunity for fabric slipping. 




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Having both the front and back of the dress on the fold makes for a really quick and easy garment, but it eliminates a lot of possibility for fit adjustments. I have some fabric pooling at the small of my back, and I have no idea how to eliminate it without a seam to work it into. I have this same fitting issue with a lot of RTW dresses. Do you have any recommendations for me? Sway back, maybe?

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My hem is a one inch hem. As I mentioned previously, I am 5'2. The length of the dress, as drafted works for me. If I was any taller, I would definitely add length! When I raise my arms, things border on indecency. Oh, and this happens....

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It's a small irritant, truly, but I do have to give a little tug to adjust the placket anytime I raise my arms above shoulder level. This may resolve when I cut the larger bust size in future versions. I'll report back.

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Ultimately, I love this dress. It's insanely easy to wear. I've worn it twice since making it, and it stands up to my daily activities with ease and provides constant comfort in the heat. I think that the gently folds at the collar give this a very timeless look; a take on the shirt dress, almost. And, I think that there is a lot of potential for versatility in a garment like this. Be sure to jump over and visit Nathalie to see her maternity version of the Tova top!!
12 Comments
Meg link
7/10/2014 12:51:51 am

YOU LOOK FAAAAABULOUS. Love this style on you, and the chambray and lace is such a great combination. Also, your photos are lovely! Where did you get these taken? Field trip sometime soon, maybe? ;)

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Michelle link
7/10/2014 12:56:38 am

THANKS, LOVEY! Mike and I were hoping you liked the photo location. We just discovered it this weekend. It's the river walk/bike trail near our house. Someone recommended it to us as a running route. The whole time we were running we kept pointing out places that might be nice for blog photos. HAHA.

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Sara link
7/10/2014 01:15:39 am

This looks great, Michelle! Love the lace detail! I haven't made this pattern in awhile but now I'm itching to dive into my chambray stash and get started! As an aside, your irritated face had me laugh-inhaling my coffee!

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Renee Anne link
7/10/2014 07:43:54 am

The face you're making when you need to tug the dress back down....priceless!

I cannot wear dresses like this because they will make me look like an overly-pregnant beached whale (even when I'm not pregnant). I'm always jealous of people that can...and you're adorable!

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Gina link
7/10/2014 10:08:41 am

I love your Tova! I've looked at the pattern a few times but I've never been sure about the shape on me.

Ashley mentioned an awesome estate sale Sally went to recently - I need to get you ladies to show me the estate sale ropes, but not until the Summer Stashbust is over!

Also, your setting for these photos is beautiful. I especially like how the last one is composed.

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Lisa link
7/10/2014 12:10:46 pm

Love this dress and your photos are so beautiful!

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joelle link
7/10/2014 04:23:13 pm

this is one of my favorite versions of the Tova. the lace details are a really nice toutch. i glad to see the dress on you as well. i also have wide hips, and i am always sceptical of a-line shapes on me, but your dress makes me wants to revisit the shift...

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sezzas link
7/10/2014 08:17:46 pm

I love this dress on you, it is perfect! I love the pop of lace - too cute! And I also love online friends, some of my best friends started out as online only, but have become amazing IRL friends too!

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tanyamaile link
7/10/2014 11:45:55 pm

I love this, Michelle! It's unique and very flattering on you. The chambray screams summer and I love the lace detail.

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Loran link
7/11/2014 04:38:21 am

Do I date myself if I say I wore, and loved, this style in the 70's? It looks GREAT on you : )

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Nat @ Made in Home link
7/11/2014 07:27:11 am

I love your version, that lace really works well with the chambray. I tried to put my hands up as well, and I have the same issue as you... But I thought it was because of my growing bust, maybe not! Love the pics!

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Ashley link
7/14/2014 01:56:17 am

Love this! The lace adds such a cute pop of contrast to the placket. I have this pattern, but just haven't been inspired to make it...yet. I may have to now! As for the back, I think a sway back could help, or maybe adding in some extra ease so things don't pool and just sort of flow outward? I have this issue, too, and I usually remedy it with a swayback alteration (but I'm totally not well endowed below the waist so maybe it's a different issue??)

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